This Classic British Egg Recipe Stars Jammy Yolks and Juicy Sausage

For the past year, my colleagues and I have made hundreds of scotch eggs—sausage-wrapped boiled eggs that are fried until golden brown and crisp—at a British grill and smokehouse in Bowness-on-Windermere, a town in northeast England’s Lake District. The traditional version of the snack made with juicy pork sausage and chicken eggs is a British classic, but these days chefs often put their own twists on the dish by changing the type of sausage or egg. Some may reach for quail eggs, duck eggs, or even pickled eggs and wrap them in blood sausage, lamb sausage, or smoked fish, with some chefs even preparing vegetarian renditions with plant-based sausage. 

Of all the scotch eggs I’ve eaten, however, the version I enjoy most is still the one I prepare at work, where I envelope soft-boiled eggs with a savory apple and pork sausage, coat it in breadcrumbs, and fry it until it’s crisp. Cut in half and served alongside a ramekin of homemade piccalilli (vegetables pickled with ground turmeric, coriander seeds, cumin seeds, and English mustard powder), the dish is so popular that it frequently sells out within the first two hours of lunch service each day. To avoid disappointing customers, our front-of-house staff members have a dedicated space on their whiteboard to keep track of the number of scotch eggs left to sell.

Scotch eggs have been kicking around Britain for centuries, but the origins of the dish are murky. Despite its name, the dish does not hail from Scotland; writing for Country Life, food writer (and son of Britain’s Queen Camilla, wife of Charles III) Tom Parker Bowles notes that the name may come from “the alternative meaning of ‘Scotch,’ meaning to cut, score, or gash.” The proprietors of the upscale department store Fortnum & Mason claim they invented the dish in 1738 when they wrapped a pullet egg—an egg from a young hen—with a mixture of chopped meat, anchovies, eggs, and breadcrumbs. (According to Parker Bowles, the evidence—in the form of archival documents—was apparently destroyed during World War I, so this claim is difficult to prove.)

It’s also possible that the dish was inspired by Indian nargisi kofta, a dish that consists of a boiled egg wrapped in a spiced minced beef and onion mixture that’s fried in ghee or butter, which is the theory that food historian Annette Hope puts forward in her 1987 book A Caledonian Feast. Regardless of how they came about, scotch eggs continue to be a mainstay of pub menus and picnic feasts across Britain. Scotch egg preferences can be deeply personal, and many Brits remain opinionated on the best eggs to use, the ideal firmness of the yolk, how best to season the sausage, what condiments to pair with them, and whether they should be served hot or cold. Personally, I like them piping hot with a runny soft-boiled egg.

The Best Sausage to Use for Scotch Eggs

Traditionally, scotch eggs are made with British pork sausage. However, British sausages differ greatly from American sausages, in both texture and flavor: While American sausages are usually made with finely ground meat, fat, and some seasonings, British sausages start with coarser chopped or minced pork, fat, and seasonings, and a breadcrumb filler. Unlike America sausages with their typically mild flavor profile, the British version leans more heavily on spices and herbs like nutmeg, sage, mace, thyme, and/or parsley. There are more than 400 different kinds of British sausages produced nationally, which means the flavor of scotch eggs varies from restaurant to restaurant and will ultimately depend on the type of sausage meat used. 

My recipe below calls for ground pork, as that will be much easier for most American home cooks to find than British or Irish-style sausages. If possible, I recommend heading to your local butcher and asking for coarse ground pork, which isn’t as finely minced as store-bought ground pork and more closely resembles the texture of British sausages. If that isn’t available, ask for a blend of meat that’s one part pork fat to four parts ground pork. 

If you’re able to get your hands on British- or Irish-style sausages, or any raw pork sausages, you can cut through the sausage casing, remove the meat, and use that for the recipe. When using pre-seasoned sausages, omit breadcrumbs and reduce salt, pepper, thyme, and nutmeg by half. Fresh parsley and chives can be kept at their original quantity. (Avoid sausages with overpowering seasonings like jalapeño or cayenne pepper.)

Measure Out Your Pork

The best way to ensure a successful, fully cooked scotch egg is to weigh and portion the minced meat for each egg to be sure you aren’t using too much or too little. The more meat you wrap your egg with, the longer you’ll have to deep fry it—and the longer you fry it, the more likely you are to burn the breadcrumb coating. I settled on 100g (about three and a half ounces) minced meat per egg. If you don’t have a kitchen scale, just divide the meat into four equal portions and eyeball it to the best of your ability.)

Use Soft-Boiled Eggs

Maybe using soft-boiled eggs is a personal preference. Maybe it’s truly the better option. The yolk tastes richer when it’s semi-cooked, and the differing textures between the sausage, egg whites, and the runny yolk give the dish more depth. But if you prefer a firm yolk, feel free to make your scotch eggs with hard-boiled eggs.

How to Serve Scotch Eggs

Traditionally, scotch eggs are eaten as a cold picnic snack or served as a warm snack and appetizer at restaurants and pubs. You could certainly serve them as a cocktail party snack or as a starter or side at a dinner party. I recommend enjoying scotch eggs alongside something sweet and tangy like pickles, relish, or mustard to balance the richness of the scotch egg. Or let the scotch egg speak for itself and enjoy it on its own.