Why It Works
- Using mayonnaise (which is essentially an emulsion of oil and water bound by the lecithin in egg yolks) instead of incorporating water, eggs, and oil or butter into the batter separately produces an exceptionally moist and fudgy cake.
- Strong black coffee enhances the cake’s rich chocolate flavor.
I am a mayonnaise enthusiast. If something is made with the condiment—deviled eggs, macaroni salad, or tomato sandwiches—I know I will love it. That includes mayonnaise cake, a retro dessert with a moist, tender crumb and rich chocolate flavor. Made with flour, cocoa powder, sugar, and a few other pantry staples, this rich, fudgy cake is what I make when I find myself short on eggs or have a late-night chocolate craving.
Serious Eats / Maureen Celestine
Mayonnaise in a cake may sound odd, but the condiment—an emulsion of oil and water bound together by lecithin, a protein in egg yolks—is essentially made up of ingredients frequently used to prepare desserts. Cooks have been using mayonnaise to prepare chocolate cakes for nearly a century; mayonnaise cake was especially popular during World War Two, when ingredients like eggs, dairy, and sugar were rationed to support the war effort overseas, and more recently during the pandemic, when bakers once again found themselves facing bare supermarket shelves.
A Brief History of Chocolate Mayonnaise Cake
Many blogs credit Hellmann’s with having created the mayonnaise cake in 1937, but one of the earliest recipes I found for the dessert was published 10 years earlier, in a March 1927 edition of the Oakland Tribune. The recipe didn’t call for store-bought mayonnaise, but it did instruct cooks to make their own mayonnaise by whipping one egg in half a cup of vegetable oil before adding it to their cake batter.
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez
General Foods, the parent company of Hellmann’s and Best Foods, debuted its version in its 1937 dessert booklet Cakes and Cookies With Personality: Exciting New Recipes for Cakes, Cookies, and Frostings. The recipe came from Mrs. Paul Price, the wife of a General Foods sales executive. Though Hellmann’s wasn’t the first to make mayonnaise cake, they did popularize it. The company used the recipe in advertisements to promote their mayonnaise, touting the dessert as a “rich, moist cake” without the need for eggs or shortening. To this day, both Best Foods and Hellman’s share mayonnaise cake recipes on their websites.
Why Mayonnaise Cake Is the Secret Ingredient for Better Chocolate Cake
In my recipe below, full-fat mayonnaise adds moisture and richness. The acidity of natural cocoa powder and the vinegar in mayonnaise activate the baking soda, producing carbon dioxide that helps leaven the cake, while its salt enhances the other ingredients, adding complexity and depth of flavor. While the seasonings in a typical store-bought mayo (such as Hellmann’s) will not affect the flavor of your cake, avoid using anything but plain mayonnaise, as using heavily seasoned mayonnaise can impact the flavor of your cake.
Serious Eats / Maureen Celestine
Mayonnaise’s signature emulsion of oil and water produces an exceptionally fudgy cake with cling-to-your-fork levels of moisture: The lecithin helps the condiment stay emulsified, and that emulsification allows for a more even distribution of both fat and moisture within the cake batter. This helps the fat evenly coat the flour particles, limiting gluten development and producing a more tender cake. These features make it suitable for serving with nothing more than a dusting of powdered sugar, but it’s also a great canvas for frosting, ice cream, or hot fudge sauce.
Use Coffee Instead of Water for Bigger, Bolder Chocolate Flavor
Many vintage mayonnaise cake recipes call for water to help moisten the batter, but in my recipe below, I’ve replaced water with strong black coffee, which complements and intensifies the cake’s chocolate flavor. Hot tip: Brew your coffee at double the strength you’d make for drinking. Don’t worry if you aren’t a coffee lover, though—even with double-strength coffee, this cake doesn’t taste like coffee, just rich dark chocolate. And isn’t that what we all want from a chocolate cake?
