Why It Works
- Constant whisking while adding the fine white cornmeal to the boiling water prevents lumps, ensuring a smooth and consistent texture.
- Cooking the ugali until it forms a starchy film at the bottom and sides of the pan ensures it is firm enough to hold its shape when flipped onto the serving platter, which makes it easy to cut into wedges.
Ugali—a supremely satisfying dense cornmeal porridge—is a beloved staple dish in many East and Central African countries, including Kenya and Tanzania. I learned how to make ugali from many women on the Kenyan side of my family: my mother, Katano, my aunt Tilly, and my grandmother, who we call Koko. We’d stand over the stove together and I’d slowly whisk the white cornmeal into a big pot of water while my grandmother constantly stirred the mixture until it thickened. Together we’d flip it onto a platter, slice it, and serve it warm alongside dishes like sukuma wiki (sautéed collard greens) and beef wet fry (meat sautéed with tomato, garlic, and ginger). For me, it’s a simple dish that carries the warmth and comfort of home, a true embodiment of family and tradition.
Serious Eats / Maureen Celestine
While ugali can have different names, such as “pap” in Southern Africa, regardless of what it’s called this simple dish most often appears in its most basic form: an extremely thick porridge made of just fine white cornmeal and water. In some variations, particularly in Maasai traditions, water can be substituted with stock, or a bit of milk and/or tallow can be added. Here I give instructions for preparing ugali as my family taught me—with just a few pats of butter or ghee and a pinch of salt to season it.
Serious Eats / Maureen Celestine
To me, ugali is the perfect meal accompaniment: It’s hearty and satisfying, its simple flavor profile means it pairs well with almost any meal, plus it comes together in only 15 minutes, and requires just four ingredients to make—and one of those ingredients is water! While it’s easy and quick to prepare, there are a few key steps to ensure that your ugali has a smooth and sliceable texture every time you make it. Here are my tips for cooking ugali that even my grandmother Koko would love.
4 Tips for Cooking the Best Ugali at Home
1. Use fine white cornmeal. To achieve ugali’s silky texture, it’s critical to start with the right type of cornmeal. In Kenya a fine white cornmeal called jogoo or maise meal is used. It’s the go-to cornmeal that is readily available at most markets. Its fine texture ensures the ugali has a smooth mouthfeel. When my family cooks ugali in the US, we make a point to use a fine white cornmeal, such as our favorite, Albers White Corn Meal. Quaker brand white cornmeal is also a good option. I have found fine white cornmeal labeled as harina de maiz in many US markets, which can also be used. Just make sure to not confuse harina de maiz with masa harina. Masa harina is nixtamalized cornmeal, and has a very different flavor than plain white cornmeal. Also make sure to avoid coarse cornmeal, grits, or polenta. These cornmeal options won’t achieve the desired smooth texture and they also require more water and time than listed in the recipe to cook properly.
2. Dial in the water to cornmeal ratio to achieve your preferred ugali texture. In Kenya, the consistency of ugali can vary from one household to another. It comes down to personal preference. Some Kenyans prefer ugali very firm, while others, including me and my family, enjoy it when it has a softer texture. The ratio of water to cornmeal is what determines the final texture. With the same cooking time, the more water that is added, the softer the ugali will be. In many Kenyan home’s, ugali is cooked so frequently that home cooks can just eyeball the quantities without measuring. But to achieve ugali that is firm enough to flip out of the pan onto a serving platter without falling apart, while also creamy, it’s important to use two parts water to one part cornmeal by volume to get the perfect consistency every time.
3. Cook until a thin starchy film appears before flipping. As the cornmeal porridge cooks it will thicken into a Play-Doh—like texture, a sign that it is almost ready to flip. But the best signifier for when it’s finished cooking is when a thin starchy film appears along the bottom and sides of the pan. The is the sign that the starch is cooked to the point where it is gelling and sticking together, so it will hold its shape.
4. Serve it as a simple side dish. Ugali’s neutral flavor makes it incredibly versatile. It can be served with almost any protein or vegetable. When ready to serve, cut the ugali into wedges, and serve as a side dish. Ugali can be eaten with a fork or with your hands, and it’s great for scooping up other foods. In my family, we enjoy it with beef wet fry and sukuma wiki, as mentioned above, but it also pairs well with most stews, braised meats, and vegetables.
Serious Eats / Maureen Celestine
